I’m finally getting around to cleaning up and documenting the Bitbeambot. I just posted detailed assembly instructions to Flickr.
Key technical improvements:
* Upgraded to brand new Hitec HS-311 standard servos
* Upgraded the servo mount point – it now locks very tight
into place. Previous version was very delicate and prone to slipping.
* 2 new mounting plates:
– Bitbeam leg connector plate
– Arduino mounting plate
* Upgraded all arm joints
– Removed all LEGO Technic axles and bushing
– Added 6-32 nylon rods, custom aluminum standoffs, and zinc nuts
Next up: post the final bill of materials included in the kit, publishing the OpenSCAD design files to Thingiverse and GitHub, posting instructions on how to update the bot’s Arduino sketch, and documenting how to control the robot with Python or Node.JS.
Jason, that is very cool stuff to play and learn AI/Robotics. I have some questions if you can help me: 1) It’s possible to buy the kit or at least bitbeam pieces ? 2) Regarding laser cut machines can you recommend a cheap and/or entry level machine, techshop is not available in NJ.
Looks like Gridbeam is also compatible with Makeblock: (http://www.makeblock.cc/). What kind of screws do you use (Makebot uses standard ISO M4)? Would using metrix 8mm x 8mm bars instead of your 5/16 inch make any difference? By the way, have you considered to automatically drill the holes instead of laser cutting? Maybe one could build a machine with gridbeams that can be used to create even more gridbeams.
Sorry, I wanted to write "Bitbeam" instead of "Gridbeam". The latter is another, similar system with 1.5" distance instead of 8mm.
Not much updating on this recently, but I thought I’d chip in.Great idea. Might I suggest you go fully metric though? 5/16th of an inch (7.9375mm) in one direction and 8mm in the other makes no sense at all, when the difference is a mere 0.0625mm, or 0.0025".I’m going to be doing my versions as all metric, unless there is a really good reason not to?
The difference is not important on a small scale but it sums up to one hole at the size of a meter (125 * 8mm = 1000mm, 126 * 5/16th inch = 1000.25mm). I’d use metric 8mm to be fully compatible with Lego and Makeblock, but I am biased as I’m from a country that uses the metrics system anyway.
Nigel and JakobI originally chose 5/16 inch width because that was the closest width of basswood I could find at the art supply store to 8mm. But yeah, officially moving to 8mm square makes a ton of sense. So, I hereby declare that Bitbeam beams shall henceforth be 8mm in width and height. :-)One reason why I’m fine with the move is that I’m no longer a huge fan of lasercutting the beams… It takes a lot of work to align the beams between cuts… So, I’m becoming more of a fan of 3d printing the beams — and at that point, I’m not limited by wood supplies. So… bring on the perfect 8mm dimensions. :-)HOWEVER… with that said… with an 8mm beam and a 4.6mm diameter hole… the beams are kinda fragile. (LEGO isn’t as fragile because they have 1/2 the holes for the equivalent distance.) My choice is to either make the holes smaller or the beams wider. I don’t know what’s more important beam-width compatibility or hole-size compatibility. But I suspect hole-size compatiblity is more important (so as to be compatible with existing LEGO Technic gears and axles.)
Jakob, yes, I dream of making a machine made out of bitbeam that can make more bitbeams. That’s on my TODO list. :-)Also, I use 10-32 threaded nuts and bolts with my beams. But I’ve found M5 metric nuts and bolts work about the same.
Its really amazing stuff.
Presently i am looking forward to design some robotic arm which will test the touch screen.
can i get Bitbeambot – The Complete Kit , can you send me the details of it. Like price and specifications.
I would like to buy the kit as well. Could anyone tell me from where I can buy that.
The latest version of the robot is for sale on Tindie. https://www.tindie.com/products/hugs/tapster/